Natural Moisturizers – a Focus on Lanolin and its Alternatives

Lanolin is a natural ingredient derived from sheep’s wool, a renewable resource, that has been used for thousands of years for its moisturizing properties. It is interesting to look into what makes it such an exceptional natural ingredient. In a time when concerns for natural and plant-based ingredients keep rising, let’s look at the properties of lanolin and its potential natural alternatives.

Derived from sheep’s wool, a natural and renewable resource, lanolin has been utilized in cosmetic and medical applications for thousands of years.

Because of its unique composition and structure, as well as its high moisturizing power, lanolin is a key ingredient in many formulas (lotions, creams, balms, etc.) and addresses many dermatological needs.

Even though it’s been widely used since the 19th century, the global lanoline market is still growing, with a yearly growth rate of around 4.2% between 2024 and 2030, supported by rising consumer interest in natural and sustainable ingredients (Dobos, A.).

Nevertheless, lanolin has raised some concerns, notably its potential to cause allergic reactions and its non-vegan status. These concerns have enabled the development of plant-based alternatives that aim to replicate the same unique properties.

This article explores lanolin in all its aspects: its origin, characteristics, and uses, as well as the moisturizing alternatives developed to replace it.

Lanolin: Origins and Characteristics

Lanolin is a natural wax derived from sheep’s wool that has been used in skincare and medical applications for thousands of years due to its moisturizing and dermoprotective properties. To this day, it remains a key ingredient in contemporary skincare and ointments.

It is a wax ester – a lanolin acid (mixture of 170 fatty acids) covalently linked to lanolin alcohol. The presence of long-chain fatty acids and alcohols gives lanolin its thick, viscous consistency. It typically has a yellowish to amber color, although it can vary considerably depending on its purity and processing (Dobos, A.).

What’s interesting about lanolin is that it is very similar to sebum, a lipidic liquid derived from sebaceous glands. Like lanolin, human sebum’s function is to waterproof and protect hair and skin (Science Direct).

Lanolin: Ancient & New Ingredient

History says that lanolin was originally discovered by ancient Greeks, who extracted it by boiling sheep’s wool and began using it as a skincare product (Lis, K.).

But the modern extraction technique was developed in Germany in the 19th century, enabling the production of large quantities of this substance. It’s around that time that the name « lanolin » was found, from Latin words lano (wool) and oleum (oil), perfectly revealing the origin and nature of the substance. It has since become an extremely popular ingredient in many cosmetic and medicinal formulas intended for the treatment and care of the skin, and has also been used in industrial processes.

The Refining Process

Lanolin’s initial function is to coat the wool fibers and skin of sheep in order to protect them from the elements and from infections. Ancient populations obtained it simply by washing raw wool with warm water. But its use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications requires a complex refining process to remove impurities, such as pesticides and detergents, left over from the wool-washing process.

This refining process can be carried out using several methods that will affect the purity and final properties of the lanolin. In a nutshell, the higher the level of refining, the more toxic substances will be removed, and the more the substance’s sensory properties will be neutral in terms of color and odor compounds. Because this process is costly and time-consuming, the level of refinement usually depends on the ingredient’s final application (Danielle, D.).

Because lanolin is unstable and prone to oxidation, small amounts of antioxidants are often added to the final material.

The Final Material

Depending on the refining process, lanolin can take two different shapes.

Lanolin Oil

Compared to raw lanolin, lanolin oil is clear and not sticky. It spreads better on the skin and serves as a dispersant in cosmetic and medicinal applications. It is typically used for lotions, face creams, baby oils, hair oils, lipsticks, and lip glosses.

Lanolin Wax

Lanolin wax is an even better emulsifier than raw lanolin. As such, it acts as a stabilizing and binding agent, increasing the homogeneity and cohesion of formulas. It is typically used in creams, lipsticks, lip glosses, and wax mixtures, and has the advantage of being completely odor- and taste-free (Lis, K.).

Three Reasons why Lanolin is Effective for Skin Hydration

1. Lanolin Reduces Water Loss

Lanolin acts as a natural moisturizer and emulsifier, absorbing up to 400% its weight in water to form a stable water-oil emulsion. This creates a semi-occlusive film that retains moisture in the skin while allowing it to breathe. Studies show that lanolin effectively reduces water loss by 20-30% (Dobos, A.).

2. Lanolin is an Efficient Emollient

Because lanolin closely resembles the sebum and natural oils in human skin, it penetrates deeply into the epidermis, fills gaps between skin cells, and strengthens the skin barrier. The skin absorbs it quickly, soothing potential irritation and leaving no oily residue.

Its ability to act as both a humectant and occlusive moisturizing ingredient differentiates it from many other moisturizers.

It is also an ingredient of choice for medicinal applications, as it can overcome the epidermal barrier and deliver various nutritional and/or therapeutic substances to the dermis (Lis, K.).

3. Lanolin is Hydrophobic

Lanolin’s strong water-repellent (hydrophobic) properties help protect the skin from environmental conditions. It is therefore very beneficial for dry skin, helping prevent potential cracking and chapping.

Other Properties of Lanolin

Additionally, lanolin is an effective anti-inflammatory agent that can reduce skin redness and irritation. It is also anti-microbial and hypoallergenic. (Wisdom Library)

Lanolin’s cosmetic uses

Due to its beneficial properties, lanolin is widely used in various personal care products, including:

Skincare and personal care: lotions, moisturizing creams, lip balms, hand creams, and shaving creams.
Maternity and baby products: baby oil, diaper rash treatments, and nipple cream for lactating mothers.
Makeup: lipstick, liquid and cream foundations, and powders.
Medications: hemorrhoid treatments and medicated shampoos.

In addition to moisturizing, its emollient qualities improve the smoothness and texture of cosmetics.

Note: Lanolin also has various industrial uses, including as a lubricant, in leather production, as a textile additive and emollient, in paints, varnishes, polishes, inks, and as a waterproofing agent for concrete (Dobos, A.).

Rule n° 1: Ensure that Sourced Lanolin is of High Quality to Avoid Impurities.

While lanolin offers many skin benefits and is generally safe, its purity is essential. Inadequate refining can leave harmful impurities that may cause allergic reactions, particularly in individuals with sensitive or damaged skin. In the European population, this allergy affects approximately 0.4% of people (Lis, K.). Patch testing is therefore important before widespread use.

Sourcing lanolin from reputable suppliers helps ensure product quality and safety.

Limits & Precautions

Customers should patch-test products containing lanolin, especially if they have sensitive or damaged skin.

Manufacturers should ensure that raw lanolin complies with published monograph standards, such as the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) or European Pharmacopeia (Eu Ph.), to guarantee purity and safety.

Lanolin and its Plant-Based Alternatives

Because it is not always clear which grade of lanolin is used, with many products simply stating that they are «medical grade », a term that does not directly correlate with pharmacopeia standards, people have been seeking alternatives.

Furthermore, while lanolin can be certified as cruelty-free, it is not considered vegan.

As a result, plant-based alternatives have been developed, which offer an animal-free or organic solution for nipple care, albeit with a very different sensory profile.

Due to lanolin’s unique composition, however, it can be challenging to fully replicate the ingredient’s properties.

Suitable replacements for lanolin ideally have:

Comparable water absorption,
Emulsifying capabilities,
Adhesion and skin-moisturizing effects.

Here are some potential natural alternatives, according to Kelly A. Dobos:

Soybean Glycerides & Shea Butter

INCI: Soybean Glycerides (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Unsaponifiables.

Unsaponifiable matter refers to the components present in oils and fats that cannot be converted into soap with alkali. These compounds include phytosterols, tocopherols, and triterpenes.

Shea butter is an excellent source of these compounds, as it contains 5-10 times more unsaponifiable matter than typical vegetable oils.

This composition shares similar skin feel, structure, gloss, film-forming properties, and water-absorbing capacity with lanolin. And the excellent adhesion to skin also makes this a strong choice for lip color applications.

Shea Butter, Rosin and Olive Oil

INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables.

Rosin is a sticky, amber- to black-colored resin derived from pine trees or other conifers. Glyceryl rosinate is made by combining glycerol with long-chain acids derived from rosin. This material mimics the tacky, adhesive properties of lanolin.

When evaluated in an emulsion compared with lanolin, this combination of ingredients provided similar organoleptic properties but did not match lanolin’s prolonged moisturization.

Palm Oil

INCI: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (BDPA) is a semi-solid palm-based ingredient consisting of complex esters of isostearic acid and adipic acid. BDPA has demonstrated performance similar to lanolin in reducing transepidermal water loss and in comparative waterproofing when combined with propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate.

Note: Published data on the efficacy of ingredient marketing as a lanolin replacement is limited.

To Conclude

Lanolin remains a key ingredient in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals due to its strong moisturizing properties and its unique ability to mimic natural skin lipids. It offers dermoprotective benefits and is effective to support dry skin, daily care, and lactating mothers.